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The But ‘n’ Ben is a culinary landmark loved by locals and tourists – and a Hollywood icon.

It’s been run by the Horn family for 50 years – but owners Margo and Angus have decided to hang up their pinnies and put it on the market.

The couple have mixed emotions about it.

They’ve loved meeting and entertaining people over the decades – including legendary actor Al Pacino – but they feel now is the time to enjoy some much-earned free time.

The famous Angus restaurant has a fascinating back story.

It began life as something far simpler – a humble two-room cottage bought in the early 1960s as a family holiday home.

Then called No 1 Auchmithie, it was purchased by current owner Angus Horn’s parents Iain and Margaret Horn.

At that time, Angus’s much-loved gran was still living in the village, and it was the perfect place for the family to hang out.

The cottage was what Scots call a ‘but ‘n’ ben’ – two rooms and a hearth.

But as the Horn family grew and the cottage was no longer required as a holiday home, Margaret saw potential.

By 1976, decades before seasonal, local and ‘traditional-with-a-twist’ became the language of fashionable cookery, she decided to open a tearoom.

What she created would become one of the region’s quiet gastronomic treasures.

From the first weekends and summer openings, The But ‘n’ Ben offered honest Scottish cooking made with fresh local produce.

But one dish rapidly rose above the rest – the Smokie pancake.

Part comfort food, part local signature, it soon became the restaurant’s unofficial emblem.

Taking up the story, Angus says: “The £200 buy – which was what the cottage cost in the 1960s – probably didn’t seem like a bargain considering there was no running water or electricity.

“Along with the food, the But ‘n’ Ben sold Scottish crafts, pottery and jewellery.

“The food side took off and room for arts and crafts was needed for table space.”

Angus was always around, helping at weekends and during holidays – even as a young boy.

He started in the kitchen doing dishes and peeling tatties and carrots.

Giving up his place in further education, Angus came to work full-time at the But ‘n’ Ben, doing waiting and kitchen work until he decided what career he would pursue.

In the mid-80s the business expanded into No 2 Auchmithie, giving a new bar area and further dining space.

Margo – Angus’s wife – came on board in the ’90s but dipped in and out as she dabbled in other careers in hospitality and the care sector.

On Margaret and Iain’s retirement in 2008, Margo and Angus purchased his parents’ half of the business and continued to operate the now-expanded restaurant, with the emphasis on fresh and local.

Sadly Iain died shortly after retiring, but the business he and Margaret built had endured through decades of changing tastes and shifting trends.

“We have always, where possible, promoted the use of Scottish produce, be it from the North Sea, the Highlands or the nearby fields of Angus,” says Margo.

“Of course the famous Arbroath Smokie is our signature dish and still takes pride of place on our menus.”

Today, it remains a star attraction – soft, smoky, creamy, and rooted in the region’s fishing heritage.

Yet the menu offers no shortage of competition.

Depending on the season, you might find good old-fashioned mince, tatties and skirlie, bowls of mussels, warming kedgeree, or, come evening, a more sophisticated spread.

Think venison, game pie, haddock stuffed with prawns under a blanket of creamy cheese sauce, and shellfish – crabs, lobsters and langoustines – caught by Arbroath fishermen.

It may surprise some that a restaurant in a village of around 200 people would draw visitors from around the world – but The But ‘n ‘ Ben has done exactly that.

Over the years, its tables have welcomed an extraordinary parade of familiar names.

Andy Williams, the American crooner, dropped by in the early days.

Musicians like Ian Anderson of Jethro Tull and Scottish entertainer Andy Stewart (of Donald Where’s Your Troosers? fame), followed.

Comedians Lee Mack, Julian Clary, Paul Merton, Rikki Fulton and Frank Skinner have sat among locals enjoying lunch.

So have writers such as Denise Mina and broadcasters like Anita Rani – and former first minister Alex Salmond.

The sporting world has appeared in force too – golfers Jean Van de Velde, VJ Singh, and Peter Alliss, football legend Walter Smith, and even FIFA figures David Will and Sepp Blatter.

Chefs Michel Roux Jr. and the late Andrew Fairlie were also visitors.

And then there is the restaurant’s most surprising guest of all: Al Pacino.

“It was back in 1989 or 1990,” says Margo.

“The staff who were working at the time didn’t know who he was – which is hilarious!”

So what have been the highlights of being restaurateurs over the decades?

“It’s undoubtedly the people you meet and the friends you make along the way,” says Angus.

“Some very famous stars of sport and entertainment have popped in over the years, and politicians, comedians and Michelin-star chefs have been returning customers.”

While excited about their future, Margo and Angus admit they are sad to be leaving – and will miss loyal staff and customers.

“We’ve enjoyed strong support from the Angus community and beyond, and in truth there are so very many people we will miss,” laments Angus.

“The staff that have helped over the years have been an unbelievable support, and many will forever have our hearts.

“The enjoyment of seeing school kids starting as nervous kittens maturing into wonderfully relaxed, kind, able and confident adults has been a pleasure to be part of.

“The loyalty shown by long-standing staff has been humbling and we are grateful for the commitment they have shown, especially in the tough Covid times.

“But now it is time to hang up our pinnies and enjoy a bit of free time before our advancing years.”

The couple plan to spend summers travelling across Scotland and Europe, taking in sights they have longed to see but struggled because they were time-restricted.

They want to get out on their e-bikes, catch up with friends, and enjoy all the evening and weekend activities – taking college classes, watching shows, visiting galleries and museums – that they’ve missed out on.

“It’s just all the stuff ‘old people’ like to do with the freedom of time to do it,” says Margo.

“And as well as all that, we’ll maybe get to enjoy some nice food and wine without having to cook or serve it!”

What remains constant about The But ‘n’ Ben is a sense of place – of the past still living in the present, in a building that grew from a simple cottage into one of Angus’ most distinctive dining experiences.

Its story is one of family, tradition, and the enduring power of a good meal shared in a place that feels like home.

This article appeared in The Courier on 15 December 2025.